UPDATE:  Please read this update first before reading the rest of this post.

I recently discovered more information about the list compiled by James Fulton and how that research was done.  My new information comes from Paula Begoun’s book “The Original Beauty Bible“.  She points out that this research was done with much larger concentrations of these ingredients than would ever be used in any makeup product.  What this really means is that we don’t have to be scared off by products that might contain one, or even more,  of the ingredients listed below.  Instead, look at where the ingredient is placed in the list on the product label.  The higher on the list the ingredient is, the higher the concentration in the product.  Therefore, if the second ingredient listed is one of the ‘pore-clogging’ ones below, then it is probably a significant ingredient in that product and is not a great choice.  If it is near the end of the list of ingredients, then you probably do not need to get too concerned.  Alternatively, you can always judge by the way the product feels on your skin.  If it feels too creamy or greasy for you then it probably is.

This list is based on the rating scale of the Acne Research Institute, founded by Dr. James E. Fulton, for the comedogenic and irritant potential of a number of common cosmetic ingredients.  The rating scale goes from 0 to 5, with 0 being the least likely to clog pores or irritate your skin and 5 being the most likely.  Since the list is extremely long and difficult to decipher, I have picked out those ingredients with a comedogenic rating of 3, 4 or 5.  These are the ones you should try to avoid in your acne makeup, particularly the ones at the upper end of the scale. There are some ingredients that are irritating for some people’s skin, even though they are noncomedogenic.  See the link to the full list below (but see my update note above before getting too frightened by the length of the list).

Ingredients rated 5 (most comedogenic):

  • Acetone
  • Algae extract
  • Carrageenan
  • Hexadecyl alcohol
  • Isocetyl stearate
  • Isopropyl isosterate
  • Isopropyl myristate
  • Laureth-4
  • Octyl stearate
  • Oleth-3
  • Potassium chloride
  • Red algae
  • Sodium chloride (salt)
  • Sodium lauryl sulfate
  • Wheat germ oil
  • Myristyl Myristate

Ingredients rated 4 (very comedogenic)

  • Acetylated lanolin
  • Acetylated lanolin alcohol
  • Algin
  • Cetearyl Alcohol + Ceteareth 20
  • Cocoa butter
  • Coconut butter
  • Coconut oil
  • Disodium monooleamido PEG 2-sulfosuccinate
  • Ethylhexyl palmitate
  • Glyceryl-3-diisostearate
  • Isopropyl palmitate
  • Isostearyl isostearate
  • Isodecyl oleate
  • Lauric acid
  • Myristyl lactate
  • Octyl Palmitate
  • Oleyl alcohol
  • PEG 16 lanolin (Solulan 16)
  • PPG 2 myristyl propionate
  • Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate
  • Propylene glycol monostearate
  • Sorbitan sesquinoleate
  • Steareth 10
  • Stearyl heptanoate
  • Xylene

Ingredients rated 3 (moderately comedogenic)

  • Butyl stearate
  • Colloidal sulfur
  • Corn oil
  • Cotton awws oil
  • Cotton seed oil
  • Crisco
  • D&C red #30
  • D&C red #36
  • D&C red #17
  • D&C red #21
  • D&C red #3
  • Decyl oleate
  • Dioctyl succinate
  • Ethoxylated lanolin
  • Glyceryl stearate LSLE
  • Hydrogenated vegetable oil
  • Isostearyl neopentanoate
  • Laureth-23
  • Mink oil
  • Myristic acid
  • PEG 200 Dilaurate
  • PEG 8 stearate
  • PG monostearate
  • Shark liver oil
  • Sodium Laureth sulfate
  • Sorbitan oleate
  • Soybean oil
  • Stearic acid: TEA
  • Sulfated castor oil
  • Sulfated jojoba oil
  • Wheat germ glyceride

You can see a full list, including the non-comedogenic ingredients, at www.zerozits.com.

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Filed under: Acne Skin CareMakeup for Acne

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